Finishing Out Fodder

Fodder after 5 days in the tray.

Fodder after 6 days in the tray.

Spraying down the grass to get rid of vinegar flavor.

After the mold fiasco, I still kept the fodder going, and it continued to grow.  Finally, I decided that the fodder had probably grown enough that I should probably feed it to the rabbits.  Since I had been spritzing the whole thing with white vinegar after every watering, I rinsed the whole thing off with water before taking it out to the rabbits.  (Vinegar is usually not regarded as a pleasant flavor, especially not white vinegar).

Whole growth after 6 days in the tray.

I dumped the whole thing out onto the top of our house rabbit's cage.  I thought it would be funny to watch her nibble at the grass upside down (she's a white rabbit, and the idea struck me with a kind of Wonderland madness).  Plus, I wanted to get a good look at the root mat.  It was surprisingly thick, which made me happy.  Our last run had a disappointingly thin root mat, despite having grown a day longer than the current run.

Nice thick root mat for this round, compared to the thin one from our last run that took 8 days.

House rabbit, Margaret.

BamBam, Cali herd buck.

Ixis, white Rex buck.

< Previous: Defeating Mold on Fodder

Going Green with Fodder

Draining out water.

After the equipment has been sterilized, and the seeds soaked in bleach water for 12 hours, it's time to get serious about making this seed grow into fodder.  One of the handy things about using these reusable jar lids is that I can just loosen them slightly and dump the water out without losing any of the seeds.

The seeds have started to sprout after soaking 12 hours.

Most of the instructions I've seen about growing fodder suggest continuing to soak the seeds for about three days, changing out the water twice a day.  However, when I looked at my seeds after the initial drain, I saw that many of the seeds were already starting to sprout.  So, I decided that it wouldn't hurt to move the seeds to a growing tray right then.  I dumped the drained seeds into one of the washed trays, peeling back a corner of the plastic wrap that I had covering it.

Dumping seeds into tray.

Seeds spread out in the tray.

In order to spread the seeds evenly in the tray without contaminating the seeds, I washed my hands thoroughly.  If you've ever taken a food safety course, you know that truly clean hands is only possible with water as hot as you can stand it and scrubbing with antibacterial soap for at least 20 seconds, especially between the fingers and under the fingernails.  One trick for getting a full 20 seconds of washing is to sing "Happy Birthday" to yourself, twice through.  Follow up with a bit of hand sanitizer, and rub until your hands are completely dry.  I didn't measure exactly how deep my seeds were in the tray, but I know that anything much more than 3/4" tends to mean lack of seed sprouting, and excessive mold. Mine should be well below that, especially since I can still see the black of the tray under the seeds.

Filling the tray with low water pressure.

From there, we use the hydroponic method of flood and drain, which means filling up the tray with water, and then dumping it out.  Even though the sprouts just came out of a soak, I did a flood and drain to help remove any traces of bleach that might still be on the seeds.  While the seeds are still in the sprouting stage, some of the seeds try to float and escape the container as I'm dumping it out, but I use the plastic sheet as a kind of dam filter to keep the floaters in the tray.

Draining off the water.

Covered back up with plastic.

Temp at the growing shelf.

After dumping, I covered the tray back up with the plastic wrap, and set the tray at the growing station, which was at just over 64 degrees at the time.

Every twelve hours, I repeated the flood and drain.  Each day, the sprouts could be seen getting just a little bit longer, and after 3 days in the tray, I was starting to see green in the shoots.

After 24 hours in the growing tray.

After 48 hours in the growing tray.

After 72 hours (3 days) in the growing tray.

< Previous: Clean Start on Fodder

Next: Defeating Mold on Fodder >

A Clean Start on Fodder

Fodder from one of our former runs at it.

I've tried growing fodder a couple of times, now.  I know my rabbits absolutely love it, but unfortunately, most of the times I try it, I end up with mold (a common problem).  This time, I'm going to try it by sterilizing everything and keep the environment more controlled and monitored.

If you want to learn more about fodder, Peak Prosperity is where I first read about it.  There are many other resources available online, with a few different methods.  My own method differs somewhat from the method they discuss, and I'm considering eventually going to an automated system for it once I get the kinks worked out.

Boiling jars to sterilize them.

As I've said, mold has been a problem for me before, so this time, I'm going at the whole process with a "brewer's mind," as my sweetie likes to say (he brews beer, which requires sterilized equipment).  Being a canner, myself, that's more what I like to think of it as.  Either way, the idea is to sterilize everything.

The first few times, I've soaked the seed (whole grain wheat, bought from the feed store) in plastic tubs, similar to how The Urban Rabbit Project does it (he uses margarine tubs). This time, since I'm wanting to sterilize everything, I figure it's best to use some of my canning jars, which I can boil without risking any chemicals leaching where they shouldn't be.  Just like in canning, I put clean (read: no visible residue, washed in soap and hot water) jars into hot (not boiling) water in a deep pot on the stove.  I also put some reusable jar lids in the water to sterilize.  You want the water to be at least an inch above the top of the jars.  I don't have a canning rack, otherwise I would have used it.  A canning rack will keep multiple jars from bumping into each other while the water is boiling, and also make it easier to remove them from the water when they're done.  Once the water starts into a rolling boil, start your timer.  For elevations under 1,000 feet, it only takes 10 minutes.  If you're over that, add another minute for each 1,000 feet.  So, if you're at 4,000 feet above sea level, you'll want to boil for at least 14 minutes. Extra time just means extra sterile.

Removing jar with a jar lifter.

When time's up, I removed the jars (and lids) from the water and set them aside to cool to a handleable temperature.  (For those who aren't familiar with canning, the red contraption in the picture is a jar lifter, which--if you don't have a canning rack--is the only way to remove jars from boiling water.)

Fill the jar 3/4 with seed.

Once the jars got cool enough to handle, I put the fodder seed into the jar.  I filled the jar about 3/4 of the way with seeds.  You don't want to fill all the way because the seeds will swell as they drink in the water.  I then topped off the jar with water and tiny splash of bleach.  The bleach is to kill any mold spores that might be hiding out on the seeds themselves.  Some people have used distilled vinegar or apple cider vinegar, but at this point, I'm not quite ready to switch to that method.

Give the jar a good shake.

After I got the lid on the jar, I gave the whole thing a good shake to make sure it's all well-mixed and hopefully work out any bubbles of air that are still hiding in there.  From there, the jars were set aside to soak for some time.  I'm letting mine soak for 12 hours (others only do a one- or two-hour soak with bleach, and then let it soak in straight water; still others will soak for a full 24 hours).

Temperature within optimum range.

The optimum temperature for growing fodder is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.  The last few times I did this, I was worried that I may have been working outside of the optimum temperature range, but I'm apparently good for this round, with temperatures hovering between 66 and 69 degrees.

In the meantime, I wanted to sterilize the trays that the seed will be going into when they're done soaking.  I'm using nursery trays bought from the local hardware store.  Other people have used organizer trays, plastic totes, disposable roasting pans, and other things.  Many people punch holes in their trays, but for the time being, I'm leaving mine as-is.

Bleaching the seedling tray.

In order to sterilize the trays, I started by scrubbing the whole thing down, inside and out, with soap and water.  After that, I poured some bleach into the tray and scrubbed the entire inside down with bleach.  Then, rinse the whole thing with hot water.

Since I'm taking extra precautions to control the growing environment and reduce the risk of mold, I then covered the tray with plastic wrap and taped it down.  If I had thought about it when I bought the trays, I should have grabbed the clear plastic lids that come with them.  At the time, I didn't think I would ever use them (oops).  The plastic wrap will keep anything from getting into the trays while we wait for the seeds to sprout.

Plastic wrap taped down to keep contaminates out.

Next: Going Green with Fodder >

Cost of Feeding Rabbits Pellets

I just ran through a rather interesting exercise in just what it costs to feed rabbits.  A conversation came up about someone who claimed that a nursing doe could be fed on $30 a year.  I discovered through some math that it's not even possible to feed a buck (much less a nursing doe) for a whole year for that much unless your pellets are less than $11 per 50 lb. bag (I haven't seen prices like that in 10 years).  You may be able to have feed costs that low if you feed with forage or fodder, though.  I really need to get that working...

It's probably a good idea for everyone to understand how to break down their feed costs, and estimate what various configurations might cost.

Calculating Cost Per Pound of Feed

(Cost per bag) / (Pounds per bag) = Cost per pound of feed

Depending on the deal of the day, a 50-lb. bag of pellets costs me anywhere from $13.33 to $16.90.

If you've ever done budgeting, you know that you should always estimates costs high.

$16.90/50 lbs. = $0.38/lb

But, for sake of seeing just how low our costs can be:

$13.33/50 lbs. = $0.2666/lb, which rounds to $0.27/lb

Cost of Maintenance

(Ounces of feed per day per rabbit) x (365 days) / (16 ounces per pound) x (cost per pound) = Cost per breeder per year

I feed my breeders a cup of feed a day, which weighs about 6 ounces.

6 oz. x 365 days / 16 oz. x $0.38 = $52.0125, which rounds to $52.02 (always round up when budgeting).

6 oz x 365 days / 16 oz. x $0.27 = $36.95625, which rounds to $36.96

This is how much it will cost just to maintain each breeder every year, without adding in the costs of nursing a litter.

Cost to Processing Age

There is a study on feed conversion of various meat breeds on a certain diet.  The pellet they used in the study was only 16.5% crude protein, which is on the low end, but it serves for making estimates.  They looked at what it cost to grow rabbits from weaning at 28 days old to 70 days old.  I never wean earlier than 35 days (5 weeks), and usually don't wean until 56 days (8 weeks).  Several studies I've read suggest that weaning before 5 or 6 weeks results in less efficient feed conversion.  Also, feed with 18% crude protein usually results in better gains.  Given all of that, using the study's results of 3.5 lbs of feed per pound of gain is a high estimate, which serves our purpose for budgeting.

In the study, the average weight at weaning was around 18 oz, which is a pound more than most kits are born.  If you assume an extra 3.5 pounds in feed from birth to four weeks per kit  (to get that first pound of gain), that's 2 oz. a day per kit in extra feed for the doe.  If your doe has 8 kits in a litter, that's a pound of feed per day.  For me, that would be 2-2/3 cup extra (so 3-2/3 cup all together).  I don't think I've ever had a nursing doe eat that much food in a day all by herself.  If you estimate that 3.5 pounds to cover the doe's extra feed for the entire course of nursing (I'll go with 8 weeks), it translates to 1 oz. a day per kit extra, which translates as 1-1/3 cup extra (2-2/3 cup total) for a litter of 8.  That's still on the high end of what my experience is.

At 10 weeks, when I normally process, my rabbits average close to 5 pounds.  5 pounds of gain x 3.5 pounds of feed = 17.5 pounds per rabbit to 10 weeks.

If you want to estimate your own feed per kit, keep track of how much feed you give the doe from the time you increase her feed (I start giving extra the day she kindles; others prefer to up the feed for the last half of pregnancy).  Subtract the amount for maintenance (in my case, less 6 ounces per day).  When you wean the kits, record that total net amount.  From there, add in the whole amount of feed that you are giving the kits until 10 weeks.  At 10 weeks (or whatever age you process or sell the kits), divide the amount fed by the number of kits in the litter.  That is how much feed it takes to get each rabbit to processing age.

In sum:

(maintenance feed per day in pounds) x (days from increasing feed to weaning) = doe's maintenance feed to weaning

 ((weight of feed fed from day of increase to day of weaning) - (doe's maintenance feed to weaning) + (weight of feed fed from weaning to processing)) / (number of kits in litter) = weight of feed required per rabbit to processing age

If you feed 6 oz. of feed a day as maintenance, don't increase feed until kindling, and wean at 8 weeks:

6/16 lbs/day x 56 days = 21 pounds maintenance feed for the doe

49 lbs fed to cage from kindle to weaning - 21 pounds doe's maintenance + 112 pounds fed from weaning to processing = 140 lbs fed to entire litter

140 lbs / 8 kits = 17.5 lbs of feed per kit to get to processing age

(pounds of feed to get to processing age) x (cost per pound of feed) = cost per rabbit to processing age

Using my own numbers:

17.5 lbs x $0.38 = $6.65 per rabbit to processing age

17.5 lbs x $0.27 = $4.725, which rounds to $4.73 per rabbit to processing age

Cost Per Year

(cost of maintenance per breeder) x (number of breeders) = cost per year for breeders

(cost per rabbit to processing age) x (number of rabbits produced per year) = cost per year for processed rabbits

(cost per year for breeders) + (cost per year for processed rabbits) = total cost per year

Let's do a couple comparisons, here.  First, let's assume that you have a single pair of breeders, and you get four litters of 8 kits each year.

$52.02 x 2 = $104.04 for breeders
$6.65 x 8 kits x 4 litters = $212.80 for processed rabbits

For a total of $316.84

With the minimum costs:

$36.96 x 2 = $73.92 for breeders

$4.73 x 8 kits x 4 litters = $151.36 for processed rabbits

For a total of $225.28

(Already, you can see how getting feed on the discount days really adds up)

What happens if you add an extra doe to double your production?

$52.02 x 3 = $156.06 for breeders

$6.65 x 8 kits x 8 litters = $425.60 for processed rabbits

For a total of $581.66

With minimum costs:

$36.96 x 3 = $110.88

$4.73 x 8 kits x 8 litters = $302.72 for processed rabbits

For a total of $413.60

What if you just doubled the production of one doe, so that she was producing 8 litters a year?  That would require that you breed back 2 weeks after kindling, and wean kits at 5 weeks.  Technically, that would probably reduce the feed efficiency of the kits, and you may have to replace the doe much sooner than if you weren't breeding back until weaning, but for sake of simplicity, we'll just assume it still costs the same amount to feed the kits to processing age.

$52.02 x 2 = $104.04 for breeders

$6.65 x 8 kits x 8 litters = $425.60 for processed rabbits

For a total of $529.64

Minimum costs:

$36.96 x 2 = $73.92

$4.73 x 8 kits x 8 litters = $302.72 for processed rabbits

For a total of $376.64

As you can see, it pays to increase production of a single doe (within limits).  But, it comes with risks.  Namely, if a doe can't recover after weaning a litter, or doesn't maintain her weight, you'll lose out on an entire litter, if not the doe herself.

What Do You Use These Figures For?

You can use these figures to determine how much you need to sell each rabbit for in order to recover feed costs (nevermind water, nesting materials, labor, equipment and replacement breeders):

(cost per year) / (number of processed rabbits to sell) = minimum price per processed rabbit

$316.84 / 32 kits = $9.90125, which rounds to $9.91 (one pair, 4 litters, at maximum cost)

$225.28 / 32 kits = $7.04 (one pair, 4 litters, minimum cost)

$581.66 / 64 kits = $9.09 (one trio, 4 litters per doe, maximum cost)

$413.60 / 64 kits = $6.46 (one trio, 4 litters per doe, minimum cost)
$529.64 / 64 kits = $8.28 (one pair, 8 litters, maximum cost)

$376.64 / 64 kits = $5.89 (one pair, 8 litters, minimum cost)

$3,764.22 / 480 kits = $7.84 (one buck and ten does, 6 litters per doe, maximum cost)

Those prices reflect the absolute minimum you can charge per rabbit in order to recover your costs, and that's provided you actually sell all of them.  If not, that's the cost you're eating (literally).

The other option, if you're not selling everything that you're producing, is to divide by the number you do sell, instead.  If you want to make allowances for what you're eating, subtract the value of what you're eating from the cost per year before dividing.  

So, if you're eating a rabbit a week instead of buying chicken from the store, you might be saving $5 a week, which is $260 a year, but keep in mind that you're also cutting out 52 (or however many) rabbits you would have otherwise sold. 

($581.66 - $260)  / (64-52) = $26.81

 If you're keeping records for profit and loss for your rabbitry, and you're keeping them separate from your household expenses, record each rabbit you eat as "sold to family for dinner" and price it at whatever you would have paid for another similar meat (chicken, pork or turkey, of about the same weight or number of meals) at the store.

When you see numbers like these, you realize just how important it is to find ways to scratch out just a little more savings, and sell a few more byproducts.  I try to buy my feed on days with the best discounts.  I could probably save more if I could ever get my fodder to work out right.  If I could ever motivate myself to tan more hides, I could make a nifty profit off of them, too.  Some other ideas to sell are manure, dried rabbit ears (great dog treats), rabbit feet, felted fur, or even raw fur (fly fishermen supposedly use it).

If you'd like to calculate all this without having to do the math, I've made a calculator here.  Let me know in the comments if something doesn't work right on the form.