I did a quick Google search to see if there was a good reference for people new to rabbits on how to sex a rabbit. To my surprise, none of the results on the first page seemed like good references; they either seemed to provide an overload of information or only gave general information and not-so-helpful diagrams. So, my remedy is to provide one here. Please feel free to share this post around if you find it helpful.
Mature rabbits are by far the easiest to sex. However, as you can see from the above picture, simply looking at the vent--that's the term we use to refer to all rabbits' private areas, including the anus and vulva or penis--is not enough to determine sex.
Scrotum on a mature buck.
Many mature bucks have very obvious scrota when you flip them over. Sometimes, especially when it's cold or the buck is stressed out, they suck their testicles inside their bodies, leaving only the scrota external, often hidden in the fur around them. If you look near the vent, you may be able to find areas of loose flesh, which are the scrota. Do not mistake a bald area for a scrotum, though--many does will have a bald area in the same place as you would find testicles, but the flesh will be more firm, rather than an empty(ish) sac.
However, a buck that has been neutered, or a buck which hasn't matured to the point of his testicles descending, is still indeterminable from a doe unless you actually expose the vent. To do this, you'll first have to flip the rabbit over.
Once you have the rabbit on its back, use your free hand to expose the vent. One finger (or your thumb) should be on the tail, and another finger (or your thumb) should be on the furry mound, such that your fingers frame the vent.
Finger on tail, thumb on mound to frame rabbit's vent.
The anus is the slit that has fur.
The mound is a raised area of fur,
opposite the tail.
With your fingers framing the vent, push the tail gently away from the vent, and press gently into the mound. This will make the genitals pop out so you can see if it is a penis or vulva.
Mature doe - note the slit and
close proximity to the anus
Mature buck - note the pointed-cylindrical protrusion
and distance from the anus.
With younger rabbits it can be a bit trickier. Not only are they smaller, but their hormones haven't kicked in to bring their genitals into their final form. As such, it can be very easy to over- or under-expose the genitals, making them look like one gender when they're really the other. I find that it is best that the tail-holding finger only holds the tail in place, without pulling back on it, and the mound-pressing finger presses gently down into the belly and slightly toward the vent, until a shape becomes apparent. You may have to readjust your finger placement until you can get it to pop definitively.
5-week-old doe: slit very near anus
5-week-old buck: tube protrusion slightly away from anus
3-week-old buck: tube protrusion slightly away from anus
3-week-old doe: slit very near anus
5-week-old buck slightly overstretched,
looking like a slit, but still very far
from anus.
3-week-old buck very overstretched,
looking like a slit, but note the gap
between the slit and the anus.
Many people are unable to sex kits under 6-8 weeks old, so don't worry if you have a hard time: you're not the only one! Just keep practicing.
This post is a continuation on Evaluating Adult Rabbits. When looking at rabbits to buy (or assess the quality of your own herd), it is just as--if not more--important to check their health, as it is to evaluate their body type. Some issues can be serious, others relatively minor, but it's still important to be aware of them. I'll go over issues in the order that you'll likely notice them as you do your inspection.
Proper ear carriage.
Lopped ears on a rex.
Crusty ears from mites.
One of the first things you should see is how the rabbit carries its ears. If it's not a lop breed or lop cross, how the ears are carried can tell you some things about them. A non-lop which has ears that airplane (especially if they're toward the ground instead of forward) or are held on either side of the shoulders most likely has some sort of issue with its ears. Mites is the most likely cause. Check inside the ears for scabs or crustiness, which would confirm mites. If the ears are just red, or have no visible marks, the rabbit could have a ear infection, which could be curable, or it could be pasturella.
Rabbit showing signs of abdominal pain.
You should also note how the rabbit sits when it isn't being bothered. A healthy rabbit will be curious about things going on. Some may just lie stretched out (unless it's cold, in which case, they may be more balled up). If it's hot, the rabbit may crane it's head up, but otherwise the rabbit should look relaxed. A rabbit which sits hunched over may be suffering from internal (gut) pain. Sometimes you can hear clicking sounds, which is the rabbit grinding its teeth. Also look at how the feet are placed. If the rabbit seems to be trying to keep their weight off their feet, it could be a sign of problems there. I'll go over specific things to look for on the feet in just a bit.
Rough coat on normal fur.
Rough, or pitted, Rex fur.
Scabby skin, missing fur.
The next thing you should notice should be fur condition. Molting is understandable, especially in summer, when a rabbit is switching out of a baby coat, or when the seasons are changing. However, a rough coat, especially if it is dull or has dandruff, can indicate other health issues. Missing patches of fur are also warning signs. Poor fur condition can be caused by mites, ringworm, other diseases, poor diet, or just generally poor health.
Matted fur around tail.
Also check for mats. Matted fur is fairly common around the tail, where meaty rabbits may have a hard time getting to in order to clean. While mats, in and of themselves, are not a huge problem, they can cause issues down the line, if not taken care of.
Healthy eye. Third eyelid visible because of stress.
Take a look at the eyes. They should be shiny and clear. Most rabbits have round eyes, but some are more oblong. Squinty eyes can be an issue though. Blue or cloudy pupils can be caused by a genetic disorder, eye injury, or certain diseases. The fur around the eyes should be clean, and free of crusts. A little bit of sleep in the corner is fine, but there shouldn't be more than a little bit, and it shouldn't be into the fur.
Cloudy pupil.
Squinty, weepy eye.
Now comes the fun part: flipping the rabbit over. There are a couple ways to do that, depending on how cooperative the rabbit is, and your own skill. I recommend using your non-dominant hand to grab the head. The "nice" way is to put your thumb under the jaw of the rabbit, with the ears between your fingers. A more difficult rabbit may require you to actually scruff them, grabbing their ears and the skin over their shoulders in one big handful. However you hold the head, you'll then want to wrap your other arm around the rear of the rabbit, scoop them toward your body, and then lay them back (sometimes you have to bend your body over with the rabbit to keep it from freaking out). Keep a hold on the rabbit's head while you inspect the rabbit. If the rabbit won't stay laid out on a table, it may be best to lay the rabbit on your lap, which cradles the rabbit.
Signs of urine scald (fur starting to grow back in).
The first thing you'll probably notice about the rabbit is how clean their underside is. It's not uncommon for white fur to have a slightly yellow tinge from urine stain. However, if the fur is missing, especially with red skin, the rabbit has urine scald. It can be treated by neutralizing the urine, but there is likely an underlying cause, such as the rabbit not cleaning itself properly because of some other issue. If the fur is caked with poop, that's obviously a problem. Diarrhea can be caused by a wide range of problems, from parasites, to improper diet, to infection.
Well-furred Rex hock
While you have the rabbit on its back, take a look at its feet. You want to see thick fur on the bottom of all of the feet. It's not uncommon for a rabbit to have missing fur on the hind feet, showing white, rough callouses. That's fine as well (although not as desirable as well-furred feet). If the skin is red--or worse, scabby--the rabbit has sore hocks. Sore hocks can be caused by improper or dirty flooring in their cage, but can also be related to poor genetics (lack of fur on the feet in the first place, or too-fine bones). A rabbit which has missing fur on their forefeet, whether the skin is red or not, is usually not a good sign (although more often related to poor flooring than bad genetics).
Calloused hock.
Missing fur on forepaw pads.
Irritated skin indicating early stages of sore hocks.
Mature doe
Next, take a look at the rabbit's vent. You want to verify that the rabbit is the gender that it's supposed to be (even with adult rabbits, mistakes can be made). If you're getting a buck, make sure that he doesn't have a split penis, which is heritable, and can cause issues with breeding.
Split penis
Normal buck
Gunky scent glad on a buck.
You also want to check the health of the rabbit. Gunky scent glands are only a minor problem, and easily cleaned up. However, any open sores or pimples anywhere on the genitals is an indication of vent disease (rabbit syphilis).
Syphilitic pimples on penis and scrotum of buck.
Scrotum with testes sucked up.
If you're getting a mature buck, check the testicles as well. It's not uncommon for bucks to pull their testes inside their body when that area is being messed with, but you should still be able to find the scrota--areas of loose skin to either side of the vent which have less fur on them. Younger bucks may carry their testes closer to their belly button instead of being to either side, if they've even dropped yet.
Good teeth
Probably the most difficult part of checking over a rabbit is checking the teeth. This is why I recommend holding the head of the rabbit with your non-dominant hand. It takes a certain level of dexterity to pull the lips of the rabbit back enough to get a good look at the rabbit's teeth. Many rabbits freak out about having their mouth messed with, so keep a good hold on the rabbit while doing this. Ideally, a rabbits teeth will be even. However, decent teeth can have a wavy or slanted profile, as long as the bottom matches the top, and there's no gap. Malocclusion is when the teeth are overly long or the bottom teeth stick out past the top teeth.
Wavy, but matched teeth.
Chipped upper teeth
Long peg tooth, uneven teeth
Severe malocclusion.
Clear nose.
While you're looking at the teeth, look for any discharge around the nose. Clear snot is usually OK, but matted fur, white or colored snot can mean that the rabbit has snuffles.
White snot common to snuffles.
Matted scent gland.
Clear snot.
I want to extend my thanks to Beth C., Melissa B., Kassie B., Kim W., Valerie M., and Evil Bunny Rabbitry for helping me collect photos.
I took a poll not long ago asking what topic people were most interested in reading. The overall winner was how to evaluate adult rabbits. In getting ready for writing the post, I've decided to break it down into two parts: evaluating body type (which I'll cover today), and evaluating health (which I'll cover in a future post).
While the focus of evaluating body type in this post is mostly for meat production (with purebred or crossbred rabbits), the greater part of it applies to all rabbits meant for breeding and/or show. The main exceptions are that full-arch breeds (such as English Spots) should be narrower, and won't fill out to the table like commerical and compact breeds. For semi-arch (also called mandolin) breeds, such as Flemish Giants, shoulders are supposed to be low and the rise is supposed to start late. Most everything else should apply to all breeds.
New Zealand and Californian rabbit profiles.
New Zealands and Californians are the top two commercial meat breeds of rabbits. They are both considered to have commercial body type, but their profiles are actually different. As you can see in the picture, Californians tend to be more rounded over the top, with an earlier peak. Both types are desirable for meat production. Other meat breeds tend to be somewhere in between the two types.
How to set up a rabbit correctly for proper evaluation.
In order to evaluate a rabbit properly, it is important to know how to pose them correctly. The rabbit shown at left doesn't have an ideal body type, but her shadows allow you to see all the curves you need to align. The front legs should be flat on the table from elbow to toe, with the toes directly under the eye. The rear legs should be placed so that the front of the toes line up with the point of the stifle (or knee). Some common mistakes people make when setting up rabbits are allowing the rabbits to sit on their front toes, with their elbows sticking up (makes their shoulders look higher than they really are); and shoving the rear end too far forward (can make the top curve look more desirable--or at least rounder--but makes the rear look more chopped off). With practice, you can actually learn to see past bad poses (which is helpful when looking at buying stock via pictures), but even then, some faults can still stay hidden.
New Zealand doe pushing forward and posed properly.
Many rabbits have little quirks that you have to deal with when setting them up. Some rabbits will push toward any touch, causing them to lean to one side or shift their weight forward or backward. Once you figure out what triggers them, you can usually trick them into balancing out. Sometimes you just have to wait for them to relax (a good pose should be relaxed, anyway).
High, well-rounded rise vs. short, flat rise.
Once you have the rabbit set up correctly, there are several things to look at. Good meat rabbits have a fairly high rise. The rise is the curve of the back, in profile, from shoulder, over the loins and back down to the table. The rise should have a nice smooth curve, with no flat areas. The peak of the curve can be anywhere along the loins (Californians and other round-commercial-types tend to peak at the front of the loins--at the end of the ribs---where New Zealands and similar types tend to peak toward the end of the loin--at the top of the hips). If you're evaluating in person, you should run your hand from neck to tail to feel the substance of the rabbit. You should feel meat, not squishy fat nor any sharp boniness. The curve should also feel smooth, with no changes of angle that catch your hand or let your hand drop away.
Late-start rise vs. proper rise start
A common fault is a late start to the rise, often paired with low and/or narrow shoulders. If you're making judgments based on a picture, make sure that the ears aren't lying on the back, which tends to cover up poor shoulders. The picture above shows what a late start looks like in picture (with the ears being held up). If you were feeling along the top line of the faulted rabbit, your hand would catch at the dip. Such rabbits lack shoulder meat. Properly-meated shoulders will start the rise right at the base of the neck, as shown on the Californian in the picture above.
Chopped off hindquarters vs. properly sloped hindquarters.
Another common fault is chopped of hindquarters. When feeling over the rear of the rabbit, there is a sudden drop from the top of the hips down to the tail, instead of having a rounded curve down to the table. Some rabbits may also have a flat slope from the top of their rise down to the table. Chopped-off and flat-sloped rabbits lack hindquarter meat.
If you're not evaluating in person, ask to see pictures of the rabbit from above, if possible, as well. There are some things you can see from above that you might not notice from a side profile.
Narrow shoulders vs. well-rounded, wide shoulders
The ideal top profile should be as round as possible, with a smooth curve going out from the shoulders, and then rounding from the loins around the rear. The above picture shows a tear-drop shaped rabbit, which lacks shoulder meat, and a rabbit which has properly wide shoulders.
Wide loins vs. narrow (or hollow) loins
It is easier to see the waistline of the rabbit from a top view. The loins should curve outward, not inward. Look for shadows indicating the outline of the loins. A turned in waist can also indicate excessive shoulder fat instead of lack of loin meat, but neither case is desirable. If you're feeling the rabbit, you can feel the ribs to be sure which is the case.
Pinched hindquarters vs. meaty hindquarters
You should also pay attention to the hips and hindquarters. You want to see well-rounded hindquarters and hips, with plenty of meat. If you can see the outline of the hips, there is a lack of meat on the hindquarters.
Hollow loins vs. well-rounded loins.
It is also helpful to view the rabbit from behind. Ideally, as usual, you want to see a smooth curve. The widest point should be at the table. Good, meaty loins will fill out around the spine, so you won't be able to see where it is. Some loins are so meaty that there may actually be a dip in the curve where the spine is. That's just fine; you just don't want to see the spine sticking up.
Properly square hocks vs. turned hocks
One other thing you should do when evaluating a rabbit is to turn it over to see how straight the hocks are. The hocks should be as close to parallel as possible. Turned-in hocks usually indicates pinched hindquarters and a lack of hindquarter meat.
If you still have any questions about evaluating rabbits, please add a comment below. I can put together an addendum post for anything I may have forgotten to cover.
